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Coast to Coast Winter Edition: Head for the Hills

"Hardship often prepares an ordinary person for an extraordinary destiny" - Voyage of the Dawn Treader


There are mechanical, mental, and physical tests on this trip.


520 miles on a windy winter day can qualify for all three.


Like a snowboarder who's doing his "n-th" run down a double-black diamond slope - there's an exhilaration but a lingering caution for exhaustion.


520 Texan Miles


Today we were galloping from Austin to Alpine through hill country Texas. Hill country on this route comprised of the Medina highway and the infamous three sisters.


Hill country is reknown for offering smooth, twisty roads with dramatic elevation changes.


To get there the red lines lead me through smaller two lane backroads as a solid warm up.


Austin saw the departure of a black Ducati and one less Pakistani to its population.



When traveling westwards of the country you'll see the sunrise in your mirror. It's a pain in the AM since the roads ahead of you remain dark. However, eventually the sunrise engulfs the entire sky with its magnificent peacock feathers in shades of red, orange, and blue.


I remember pulling over to bask in the sight. The sun shading the clouds red-orange. Its awesome power relieving the grass of its frost. And here I was an ant, nothing but a spectator to this force of nature.


Italian made vices did not distract me in that moment. Track-ready Tarmac evaporated from the train of thought. All concerns that seemed significant were insignificant. I felt humbled.


That sunrise could not be manufactured by humans - yet it naturally cleared all mental RAM data. Free of mental fog, the miles resumed to be chewed up.


Kodak moments


Soon enough successive left and right turns started to appear - albeit with blind corners and crests. Nothing daunting, but with room for error it started to warm up the tires and mood.



Leading into hill country


Hill country is also subjective to serious flooding issues after rainfall. Charles informed me of this as a word of caution so that I didn't careen myself into five feet of water coming over a crest.


It was rash not to check the weather that affected the area in advance. Fortunately, I dodged any risk in regards to this. However, the flooding danger did present itself to me as a reminder...


Dipping the toes in


Gentle start to hill country


Medina highway quickly warranted full attention when presenting its tight, 10-mph, off camber, switchbacks. Alright, this is interesting.


Then I went on a wild fling with the three sisters. And let me tell you, all three of them are crazy.


The three had a combination of long, easy sweeping corners then shorter 30-40mph sweepers in a smooth succession. All the while you're climbing up their massive tops to a climax of a gorgeous 360-degree view awaiting at the peak. The tarmac was in phenomenal condition - on part with some tracks I would go to say.


In portions there would be dramatic 20-feet drops and rises within the span of 50-yards. At the bottom of these drops would be a flood gauge sign to indicate how deep the water is passing the road. Not very assuring for your safety when you're flying 50-mph over a blind crest (perhaps I was riding a bit fast). But for every cattle gird that I passed through it felt as if I completed a sector of this harrowing track void of track marshals and run off area.


It certainly would have been more enjoyable than it was if it weren't for the wind trying to blow me off the damn hills. The concern and ecstasy of riding the roads resulted in me completely forgetting to record GoPro footage of this mesmerizing roller coaster.


However, the adrenaline was burned into me. Photos and videos aren't needed to remind me of the thrill.


From one hill to the next


Up. Down. Through. And circling all round the hills.



Keep your pants on


Hill country is the answer to anyone who doubts Texas has decent riding roads. The smooth tarmac and turns, extreme elevation changes, and spectacular views can rivals the roads in WV, TN, and VA.

The roads in those states are just that, roads. Short thrills - like the movie Taken.

The three sisters are roads you walk away with stories about. Well developed, wholesome, and each one is as good as the other - like the Jason Bourne trilogy.

Hill Country Reflections


With 200 or so miles of barren land between hill country and Alpine, TX it was time to sulk in the time spent on the interstate. The leg would be void of gas stations for about 110 miles. So the throttle grip was operated with diligent reserve.


The slab revealed two stereotypical traits of Texas - its straight roads and gorgeous desert.


An unknown amount of miles later and we were 100 miles north of Alpine, our destination. Now we were truly in the Texas desert.


Desert [tarmac] sled


The 100 miles to Alpine was the longest 100 miles of my entire trip.


The desert horizon had no end. It felt that no matter how fast the speedo was reading, Alpine was not coming any closer. It remained stationary on the horizon.


It reminded me of all the women I've chased in my life. No matter how hard I worked to get close they'd always evade me.


Sigh.


Maybe 400 miles of riding was messing with my brain. Or maybe this environment was unlike any other I've been in...hmm...


Eerie.


Riding a treadmill


Four score and seven years later - Alpine, Texas.


My superhosts were two doctors that had been in the area for a large majority of their life. I was real surprised by their personable nature and lifestyle.


We went out for a walk granting the opportunity to learn about each others backgrounds. The husband used to work on a farm into his 30s then decided to become a doctor and the wife used to live in the Silver Spring, MD area. They moved to Alpine and had been practicing there ever since. The town was quite small and tight-knit - everyone knew each other.


Considering it was in the middle of nowhere and skim milk was likely air dropped by the military, I certainly believed their narrations.


There was a humility to them and the community. I expected a bunch of characters in these desolate areas but was being proved otherwise. A recurring theme of good in what most would consider against societal norm.


In an appreciable way they contrasted what I saw as equivalents from where I was coming from. And this was pushed further with the amicable figures I met at the evening party they brought me to.


Remind me I'm in Texas


It became clear walking your own path and separating from a hive mindset isn't strange. It makes you unique. You ascribe your own value to yourself. And you become an identifiable character in the world.

I thought I was traveling for the scenery.



Fatigued from the long stint, I decided to sleep in and leave later in the morning. The body can only be taxed so much especially in full leathers.


Well, unless, you're into that sort of thing...


We were in southwestern Texas near the Mexican border. Very odd, thought I'd only ever visit this place on Google Maps. Nonetheless. Tomorrow was going to be a big day.


Tomorrow, was Big Bend National Park.





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